i already have the 2020 mitsubishi in thailand, my wife and in-laws are using it. but mum's car here is a manual transmission piece of shit that has done 250,000 kms. i hate driving it except maybe 5% of the time when i enjoy shifting gears for shits and giggles
2007-2010 CRVs are still fairly common here and parts are abdundant. I have a buddy who's got the entry level trim with the 6 speed manual tranny and it still runs smoothly to this day.
There's also the Hyundai Starex from the same model years and both cost about the same and are fairly common here too and considered as reliable. If you need a big vehicle, it could be an option as well.
How about a used Toyota RAV4 or Hyundai Tucson? At least those are what I can think of as CR-V equivalents. You also have a diesel option with the Tucson if that's your thing.
Hyundai/Kia are great if you don't use their engines. Those things are absolute dog shit.
Fortunately (at least in my area), we don't have those problematic GDi engines that plagued a lot of Sonatas and Elantras in the US. All trims of Tucsons and Santa Fes here use turbocharged diesel engines since the early 2010s I think.
In any case, I would definitely prefer a RAV4 over a CR-V but that would all depend on herr luke's options.
i do not have it the cr-v. i do want a newer car but newer cars are too expensive and manuals are getting very hard to find
Couple more got killed off this year too. I think it's down to under 15 total available in the states on new car models. Pretty much every one of them is a sports/high end car too.
vega wrote:But when I am meeting she is a round circle like egg. . She is eating 88% of foods and I am paying 100% bill.
now i am thinking of going down to a mitsubish asx, old simple car, since i have a mitsubishi already, and a brand new one with roof racks and a 10yr warranty costs the same as a 4yr old cr-v about to be out of warranty their 5yr warranty. but then the warranty is actually km limited hmmmm
asx is smaller, but has 2.0L displacement and 18" wheels, but engine is worse "stroke me, for i wish to orgasm"
i do not have it the cr-v. i do want a newer car but newer cars are too expensive and manuals are getting very hard to find
Couple more got killed off this year too. I think it's down to under 15 total available in the states on new car models. Pretty much every one of them is a sports/high end car too.
yeah when i was idly looking last year i was relieved to see they still had 6speed jettas, and of course they killed that off in '25 unless you spend $40,000 for the GLI. same deal pretty much across the board, the only 'low-end' models that still offer it only do on like a single premium trim that starts at 30-35k
also i bought the car, well i put the deposit down
skoda kamiq 2024 with roof racks, tow bar, 7 year warranty, and prepaid 7 year service plan. $39,500 AUD, so that's $25,520 USD
and also UV tinted windows from the cancer council, which is like our big government public health cancer body, cos you know ... the only reason i am getting the car is because my mum is dying of cancer, so what the fuck
The market here is absolutely nothing like that. I'm not up on every single brand for new car prices but it seems like everything is $30-$35k (about 46k-54k in a AUD) for the low end models.
I'm still not totally sold on flipping to an EV just yet. The range is still pretty lacking overall. Add in the time you have to spend charging and how hard it can be to find the proper charger for your brand. It's just a very easy pass until they get all that shit ironed out.
While EVs don't have much on the maintenance side of things besides brakes/tires. If you get an accident here and a single airbag deploys the chances of being totalled are stupid high. As it stands now there's no way to verify if the high voltage battery was damaged during an accident. So that becomes item #1 on any estimate for a body shop. Depending on the brand that can be anywhere between $5,000 to $30,000+.
vega wrote:But when I am meeting she is a round circle like egg. . She is eating 88% of foods and I am paying 100% bill.
took my car to the dealer for a diagnosis after the shop near my house couldn't work it out, they want to rip the whole fucking turbocharger out and replace it for $5000. despite the fact that there are no actual or obvious signs of mechanical failure, the tech miraculously diagnosed it as such after looking at it for less than an hour, clearly just pulled the codes and said "oh hey it's a turbocharger-related DTC, let's just replace the whole thing". everyone in the auto repair business can suck a dick, mine in particular
yeah you know it. persistent CEL, started out with an upstream o2 DTC, replaced the sensor, no fix. fast forward a couple months, as it starts to get cold i'm getting some jerky acceleration out of 1st, clearly not getting enough boost but it's intermittent. as the temps continue to drop, i'm getting zero boost at all and it's about as energetic as a concussed slug, and after another scan it's now throwing a boost sensor voltage DTC. then a random 60 degree day, suddenly everything's back to normal. and as temps drop, the intermittent acceleration problems return. so the turbine's clearly fine, something's probably telling the BOV to stay wide open or some shit, i dunno.
It could be something as simple as the maf sensor is clogged/fucked enough to cause the problem but not enough to throw a code. This engine is also known for issues in the vacuum system. It runs all over the car and it's just shitty rubber hose that dry rots.
I'd start looking for a 3rd opinion. Hell you could even look in the engine bay to see if any of the vacuum lines are fucked if you know what a dry rotted piece of rubber looks like.
vega wrote:But when I am meeting she is a round circle like egg. . She is eating 88% of foods and I am paying 100% bill.
yeah, it's almost certainly the MAF, OAT or maybe a boost sensor? but absolutely not a mechanical failure, and if you have a rudimentary understanding of how cars and forced induction work, this isn't remotely difficult to work out.
I can't remember what year your car is but I know it's a mk6 generation. So it might actually be a map sensor instead of a maf sensor. But either way the boost and maf/map sensors are easy to get to if you wanna try replacing them yourself. Neither should require programing, just plug and play to my knowledge.
I did do a little more reading on this engine in general. Both of these sensors are prone to broken wires too. Worth poking around to see if you can put eyeballs on a break in any of them.
Grab your VIN and head over to fcpeuro or ecstuning and see what the parts will run you. Take into account that fcpeuro has a killer warranty program if you go this route.
vega wrote:But when I am meeting she is a round circle like egg. . She is eating 88% of foods and I am paying 100% bill.
